Peptide design improved collagen levels in dermal fibroblasts, suggesting novel anti-wrinkle strategies using bioactive ingredients.
Peptides are recognized as multifunctional bioactive ingredients in cosmetic science, as they offer diverse beneficial effects such as skin rejuvenation, anti-aging, and skin barrier enhancement. In this study, we applied a cheminformatics-assisted peptidomimetic design platform to design novel peptides targeting heat shock protein 47 (Hsp47), a collagen-specific molecular chaperone that is downregulated during skin aging. Using molecular fingerprint similarity-based peptide design and protein–peptide docking simulations, five candidate peptides were screened, among which ICP-1225 (TY) emerged as a potent stimulator of Hsp47 and collagen (COL1A1 and COL3A1) expression in dermal fibroblasts. To improve stability and skin penetration, fatty acid-conjugated derivatives of ICP-1225 were synthesized, and acetyl-TY (ICP-1236) demonstrated the most consistent upregulation of Hsp47 and collagen in vitro. Restoration of Hsp47 protein expression and dermal collagen levels in UVB-damaged ex vivo human skin explants was also observed. These findings highlight the potential of cheminformatics-assisted peptide design in the development of next-generation cosmetic actives. ICP-1236 represents a promising anti-wrinkle candidate through the modulation of Hsp47 and collagen pathways, warranting further clinical evaluation.
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Baek et al. (2025) studied this question.
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