Dressing Elites in Early Seventeenth Century Lima, Peru

The Spanish crown used sumptuary laws and dress to support the replication of its hierarchical social structure and culture in the Americas, but this strategy faced the challenges of distance and the absence of suitable locally produced textiles. This led the clothing industry to be dependent on textile imports, resulting in its domination by merchants. Analysing bills drawn up by tailors for making clothes for elites, the article examines the commissioning process and the styles, textiles, and decorations they employed. It shows how even though sumptuary laws were not strictly enforced in Lima and cheaper bright coloured silks from China were widely available, elites showed a preference for dark coloured clothing. Even so, their clothes were often highly decorated being encouraged by the availability of Chinese silk and precious metals, and the development of a vibrant haberdashery industry that used gold and silver threads for ribbons, motifs, and embroidery.