Psychophysiological and emotional antecedents of on-sight climbing performance with alterations in the style of ascent

BACKGROUND: Lead climbing has been speculated to be a significant source of stress for rock climbers, presumably due to the potential for and perceived consequences of a lead fall. The aim of this study was to investigate psychophysiological, and emotional and performance differences with a randomised series of on-sight climbs with different ascent styles. Cardiovascular reactivity, a repeated measures design and performance assessments were used to build upon previous research. METHODS: 32 intermediate climbers attempted three separate routes, on-sight, identical in difficulty, but utilizing different safety protocols: top-rope, lead or lead with run-out. Measurements of climbing performance (technique, tactics, etc.), psychophysiological (heart rate, cardiovascular reactivity, cortisol, etc.) and psychometric (somatic and cognitive anxiety, self-confidence) variables were taken pre- and post-receiving the task instructions; and before, during and after climbing for each ascent. RESULTS: Versus top-rope, lead and run-out ascents were characterised by (a) reduced performance quality (less fluent movement and increased geometric entropy (p < 0.005)); (b) significantly increased cognitive anxiety (p = 0.002) in both lead ascents and reduced self-confidence (p = 0.001), and greater somatic anxiety specifically in the run-out ascent (p = 0.011); and (c) no significant differences in salivary cortisol or pre-climb heart rate from baseline. CONCLUSION: The results suggested that an increased likelihood of a climber falling was likely to be evaluated as threatening, elicit a negative emotional response and disrupt performance. Interventions addressing lead climbing anxiety should focus on reducing cognitive anxiety and improving self-confidence in order to reduce deterioration in performance occurring in intermediate climbers and improve enjoyment.