Comparison of low load blood flow restriction and high load resistance training of the finger flexors in advanced level climbers: a pilot study

Introduction: The aim of the present pilot study was to compare the effects of low load blood flow restriction (LL-BFR) with high load resistance training (HL) in advanced level climbers. Methods: Twenty-two climbers were randomly allocated to LL-BFR or HL performing training twice per week for five weeks. Before and after the intervention the participants were tested in isometric pull-up (peak- and average force), maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) in a finger flexor exercise, finger endurance, forearm circumference, and climbing performance. Results: There were no group differences in any of the tests (p=0.346-0.891), however, both groups increased their average force in the pull-up (LL-BFR; 52 N, p=0.012, HL; 56 N, p=0.024), MVC (LL-BFR; 15 kg, p=0.008, HL; 17 kg, p=0.002), forearm circumference (LL-BFR; 0.8 cm, p=0.012, HL; 0.6, p=0.038) and climbing performance (LL-BFR; 13.5 moves, p=0.012, HL; 10 moves, p=0.003). No pre-post differences were observed for the peak force in the pull-up (p=0.132-0.376) or the endurance test (p=0.752-1.000). Discussion: In conclusion, resistance training of the finger flexors with HL or LL-BFR resulted in no between-group differences, with both interventions improving maximal strength, hypertrophy, and climbing performance, but not endurance.