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Significant changes occur in the sea-surface spectrum as it propagates from deep to shallow water. These changes are a combined result of nondissipative forces (refraction, shoaling) and dissipative-generative forces (bottom friction, wind generation, wave breaking). In this study two prediction schemes for these changes are developed. Numerical predictions of spectral changes in shoaling water are made and compared with observed data.
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J. Ian Collins (1972) studied this question.
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