The phenomenology of revealing and concealing the male torso in Per Götesson’s menswear

This article examines how contemporary menswear challenges hegemonic masculinity through the dynamics of revealing and concealing the male torso, focusing on the work of designer Per Götesson. Originally from Sweden, Götesson is a graduate of Beckmans College of Design and the Royal College of Art. Based in London, he leads his eponymous menswear brand and is currently course leader of MA Fashion at Central Saint Martins. Rethinking workwear, his deconstructive design techniques expose body parts such as nipples, ribs and shoulder blades that have historically remained concealed in menswear. Focusing on key garments such as slashed T-shirts, hoodies and V-neck jumpers, the study explores how these designs destabilize the torso as a symbol of hegemonic masculinity. Situating Götesson within a broader visual and cultural framework, the article analyses how cuts, slashes and openings transform the relationship between body and garment, enabling more diverse masculinities to emerge. Drawing on theories of inclusive and hybrid masculinities, alongside phenomenological and sensory approaches to fashion, the study highlights how Götesson’s work redefines male identity, offering new ways to express and experience masculinity through the interplay of skin and fabric.