Natural bioactive compounds play an increasingly important role in modern cosmetic formulations, particularly in the context of efficacy, safety, and regulatory compliance. Among them, vitamin A-related compounds have attracted significant attention due to their well-documented effects on skin renewal, collagen synthesis, and photoaging prevention. This review provides a comprehensive overview of natural vitamin A derivatives and structurally related carotenoids used in cosmetic applications, including retinol, retinal, retinyl esters, β-carotene, lycopene, zeaxanthin, astaxanthin, lutein, and fucoxanthin. The article critically examines their intracellular mechanisms of action, distinguishing between canonical retinoid signaling pathways mediated by nuclear receptors (RAR/RXR) and the predominantly antioxidant activities of carotenoids. Particular attention is given to the metabolic conversion of provitamin A compounds and their relevance to biological activity in the skin. Furthermore, recent regulatory restrictions on the use of retinol and retinyl esters, especially within the European Union, are discussed in the context of formulation challenges and the growing interest in naturally derived alternatives. By integrating mechanistic insights with regulatory and application-oriented perspectives, this review highlights the potential and limitations of natural vitamin A-related compounds and outlines future directions for their use in safe and effective cosmetic products.
Łagosz et al. (Mon,) studied this question.