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August 14, 2026International Journal of Molecular Sciences0 citationsOpen Access

Barrier Function and Biophysical Effects of Retinol Creams in Mature Skin

Barrier Function and Biophysical Effects of 0.104% and 0.247% Retinol Creams in Mature Facial Skin: A Prospective Study

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Authors

IPIwona PordąbJCJulia CieślawskaMGMichał Gackowski

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Overview

Randomized single-blind trial demonstrates improved barrier function and skin remodeling with low-dose retinol in mature women, indicating effective rejuvenation within regulatory safety limits.

Key Points

  • To compare the biophysical barrier effects, structural tissue remodeling, and tolerability of 0.104% versus 0.247% topical retinol creams in mature facial skin.
  • Conducted a prospective, randomized, single-blind study in 38 women aged 40–61 years (Fitzpatrick phototypes II–III) divided into three independent sub-studies.
  • Assessed barrier parameters and wrinkle grading across 12 weeks in 28 participants randomized to either 0.104% or 0.247% retinol cream.
  • Evaluated split-face ultrasound imaging (8 weeks, n=5) and stratum corneum IL-1α and IL-1ra levels via tape stripping and ELISA (6 weeks, n=5).
  • Both 0.104% and 0.247% retinol significantly improved skin hydration, transepidermal water loss, brightness, pH, and sebum levels, showing no significant inter-group differences.
  • Ultrasound evaluation of 0.247% retinol showed increased epidermal thickness (+12.4 μm), epidermal density (+3.84%), and dermal density (+1.81%) versus control, alongside superior smoothing but higher erythema incidence.
  • Stratum corneum IL-1α decreased in 5/5 participants (median: 25.1 to 13.2 pg/Tape) and IL-1ra increased in 4/5 participants (median: 352.8 to 1403.1 pg/3sT) following 0.247% retinol treatment.

Cite This Study

Pordąb et al. (2026) studied this question.

synapsesocial.com/papers/6a7ec754b70b84ec8b913a77https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms27167205
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Also Consider

Synapse has enriched 5 closely related papers on similar clinical questions. Consider them for comparative context:

  1. 1A Double-Blind Randomized Preliminary Study Comparing the Efficacy and Tolerance of a New Retinoid Combination with the Equivalent Retinol Concentration in the Treatment of Skin Aging2026
  2. 2O07 Lower doses of retinol facilitate cell proliferation and epidermal thickening in photoaged skin2024
  3. 3Evaluating the Efficacy of Soothing Agents in Mitigating 0.1% Retinol‐Induced Skin Irritation: A Patch Test2025
  4. 4Efficacy and Tolerability of Topical 0.1% Stabilized Bioactive Retinol for Photoaging: A Vehicle-Controlled Integrated Analysis2024 · 4 citations
  5. 5Comparison of the Effects of Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) and Retinol on Photoaging Improvement2026