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August 23, 2026HeritageOpen Access

Dyed Not Dead: A Pilot Study of Dye Analysis in Preindustrial Textile Case Studies from Icelandic Collections Using FORS and Spectragryph

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Authors

NMNoemí Cubas MartínIKIan M. King

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Overview

Methodological study reveals indigoid and anthraquinone dye signatures in preindustrial wool textiles, highlighting fiber optic reflectance spectroscopy as a non-invasive screening tool.

Key Points

  • To evaluate the feasibility of fiber optic reflectance spectroscopy paired with a reference database for rapid, non-invasive dye class identification in preindustrial Icelandic textiles.
  • Assembled a spectral reference library of 351 wool samples, including undyed fleece controls, experimentally dyed fibers, and ethnographic yarns using Spectragryph.
  • Performed non-invasive fiber optic reflectance spectroscopy (FORS) across seven historical case studies, including four archaeological textiles and three early modern ecclesiastical textiles from the National Museum of Iceland.
  • Spectral reflectance features indicated the presence of indigoid and anthraquinone-related dye classes in several textiles, whereas flavonoid- and tannin-related profiles remained non-diagnostic.
  • Interpretation was substantially constrained in archaeological and dark-toned textiles by fiber degradation, contamination, natural wool pigmentation, and overlapping chromophore signals.

Cite This Study

Martín et al. (2026) studied this question.

synapsesocial.com/papers/6a8aade47677a34114446648https://doi.org/10.3390/heritage9080332
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