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Waves of large amplitude may form spilling breakers over a very gentle slope. A theoretical and experimental analysis of such waves is presented. In particular, the rate of energy dissipation as a function of bottom slope and convergence of wave orthogonals is determined theoretically and experimentally and related to the relative height of foam “white water” appearing in front of the breaker. Also the velocity field in gentle spilling breakers is measured. It was found that, except near the crest, the major features are essentially those of a limit height nonbreaking wave.
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Divoky et al. (1970) studied this question.
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