After testing several chromatographic systems described in the literature, the optimal operating conditions were retained to develop a simple and rapid method grouping TLC and HPLC/UV for separation, identification and dosage of kojic acid (CAS RN 501-30-4) or arbutine (CAS RN 497-76-7) in skin-whitening cosmetic products. The screening is carried out by TLC on cellulose plate and by TLC on silicagel plate with UV indicator and polar mobile solvent. Regarding identification and quantitative determination by HPLC/UV, the best results were obtained by direct phase chromatography, using a polar stationary phase greffed with diol groups and a polar buffered mobile phase at PH 2,5. Intralaboratory prevalidation tests were carried out on the HPLC method: detection limit, linearity and intralaboratory repeatability of standard curves and repeatability of samples quantitative determination.
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Massé et al. (2001) studied this question.
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