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Screening framework analysis reveals over half of retail clothing items contain disruptive design features, highlighting that fiber composition alone cannot guarantee textile recyclability.
Textile waste management increasingly depends on sorting discarded garments into suitable reuse, resale, and recycling routes. Yet recyclability assessments often focus on fibre composition while overlooking garment-level design features that may complicate sorting, pre-processing, and preparation of recycling-compatible feedstock. Here we develop a garment-level screening framework to identify such disruptor indicators from retailer web data and apply it to 47,522 garment variants from H&M and Uniqlo in the United Kingdom and Australia. We find that these features are embedded in ordinary garment construction, not limited to visible hardware or exceptional decorative features. Overall, 55.1% of variants exhibited at least one core disruptor indicator. Retained-barrier indicators, including linings, multilayers, trims, coatings, and secondary components, were more prevalent than removable-hardware indicators, affecting 44.9% and 27.2% of variants. Among variants with at least one hardware indicator, 93.4% lacked material-specific information. These findings show that fibre composition alone is insufficient for assessing textile waste processability, and that component-level information on hardware, linings, coatings, trims, and secondary materials is needed to support sorting, pre-processing, and recycling-feedstock preparation.
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Li et al. (2026) studied this question.
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