Experimental results on the transformation of wave height, length and steepness on a plane beach of 1/15 slope are compared with the small amplitude theory of Airy. The effects of wave shape and beach slope on the applicability of the theory are shown through comparison with these data and with those of former investigators. The theory is found applicable to the prediction of steepness. Additional observations on the transformation of crest height and length are presented and discussed with respect to their influence on the mass‐transport velocities.
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Peter S. Eagleson (1956) studied this question.
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