Dressing for death: conspicuous consumption and social identity in American mourning

While grief is intensely personal, the act of mourning is inherently public, shaped by social mores, war, economic constraints, and structural inequities. This article traces the historical evolution of American mourning material culture, examining how attire and jewellery have served as markers of social status, gender roles, and racial politics from the Victorian era to the present. By analysing the shift from restrictive, commodified 19th-century customs, such as conspicuous consumption of crepe dresses and hair jewellery, to modern expressions like memorial t-shirts and jewellery made of cremated remains, this study contextualises contemporary practices within a broader historical arc. It highlights how marginalised groups navigate unique burdens, demonstrating that women have historically borne the brunt of restrictive aesthetic expectations, and Black Americans face heightened scrutiny in their public expressions of grief. Finally, the article explores how the rise of cremation has led to the development of new types of memorial jewellery, which leads to questions about the meaning of body, permanence and mourning. Ultimately, this work argues that while technology and cultural trends continuously redefine the material culture of death, mourning adornments remain an enduring societal fixture, one that reflects the inequalities of the living.