Key result
Competitive bouldering triggers an abrupt ~29% increase in tidal volume upon exercise cessation.
Why the study?
Little is known about the physiological and cardiorespiratory demands of competitive bouldering, a unique discipline in rock climbing.
Observational (n=11)
Competitive bouldering elicits substantial cardiorespiratory demand, evoking a high fraction of maximal oxygen uptake and prolonged periods above the gas exchange threshold.
Characterizes cardiorespiratory demands of competitive bouldering; hypothesis-generating for athlete training and requires prospective validation.
Rock climbing has become a mainstream sport, contested on the Olympic stage. The work/rest pattern of bouldering is unique among disciplines, and little is known about its physiological demands. This study characterised the cardiorespiratory responses to simulated competition. Eleven elite boulderers (7 male) volunteered to participate (age = 23.3 ± 4.5 years; mass = 68.2 ± 9.7 kg; stature = 1.73 ± 0.06 m; body fat = 10.4% ± 5%). Subjects completed incremental treadmill running to determine maximal capacities. On a separate day, they undertook a simulated Olympic-style climbing competition comprising 5 boulder problems, each separated by 5 min of rest. Pulmonary ventilation, gas exchange, and heart rate were assessed throughout. Total climbing time was 18.9 ± 2.7 min. Bouldering elicited a peak oxygen uptake of 35.8 ± 7.3 mL·kg−1·min−1 (∼75% of treadmill maximum) and a peak heart rate of 162 ± 14 beats·min−1 (∼88% of maximum). Subjects spent 22.9% ± 8.6% of climbing time above the gas exchange threshold. At exercise cessation, there was an abrupt and significant increase in tidal volume (1.4 ± 0.4 vs. 1.8 ± 0.4 L; p = 0.006, d = 0.83) despite unchanged minute ventilation. Cardiorespiratory parameters returned to baseline within 4 min of the rest period. In conclusion, competitive bouldering elicits substantial cardiorespiratory demand and evidence of tidal volume constraint. Further studies are warranted to explore the effect of cardiorespiratory training on climbing performance. Novelty: Competitive bouldering evokes a high fraction of maximal oxygen uptake and prolonged periods above the gas exchange threshold. Climbing appears to impose a constraint on tidal volume expansion. Cardiorespiratory indices in elite climbers return to baseline within 2–4 min.
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Callender et al. (2020) conducted an observational in Elite boulderers (n=11). Simulated Olympic-style climbing competition vs. During exercise / baseline was evaluated on Tidal volume at exercise cessation (d = 0.83, p=0.006). Competitive bouldering elicited a peak oxygen uptake of 35.8 mL/kg/min and caused an abrupt increase in tidal volume at exercise cessation (1.4 vs. 1.8 L; p=0.006).
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