Structure-drape relationships in polyester crepe fabrics: roles of high-twist ITY yarn parameters and weave structure

Purpose This study aims to investigate the relationship between structural parameters and mechanical properties and their combined influence on the drape behaviour of polyester crepe fabrics made from high twist interlaced yarn (ITY) – a composite filament yarn (fully drawn yarn + partially orientated yarn) engineered for soft, textured, wrinkle resistant fabrics. Design/methodology/approach Nine polyester crepe fabrics with varying weave patterns (warp-rib 2/2 weave, steep twill 3/1 weave and balanced plain 1/1 weave), yarn counts, twist levels and twist directions were systematically analysed. Bending properties were measured using the Peirce cantilever method, tensile properties using an Instron tester and drape coefficient (DC) using a Cusick drapemeter. Findings Weft formability showed the strongest correlation with DC (r = 0.8927), followed by weft bending rigidity (r = 0.890) and general bending rigidity (r = 0.872). Fabrics with unidirectional twist (Z/Z) exhibited higher formability than those with opposite twist directions (Z/S). The most drapable fabric (DC = 25.0%) had the lowest bending rigidity (0.771 mN·mm) and weight (89 g/m2). Weft formability alone explains nearly 80% of the variation in DC (R2 = 0.7969). Originality/value To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this is the first systematic analysis of structure-property-drape relationships for high-twist ITY polyester crepe fabrics. The study provides quantitative predictive tools for fabric designers and garment technologists.