Advancing SDG 12 Through Material-Driven Jewelry Design with Exploration of Rosin and Sawdust Waste

Introduction: Indonesia is country rich in natural resources, including those derived from trees. One of the processed products from Pinus merkusii trees is pine resin, which is further refined into two main derivatives: turpentine and rosin. Rosin is a distilled product of pine resin, appearing as reddish-yellow chunks, and is commonly used in industries such as paint, cosmetics, and batik. However, its use in the jewelry industry remains very limited, even though its resin-like characteristics make it a promising and more environmentally friendly material for jewelry. This study employs a qualitative method using the Material Driven Design (MDD) approach by collecting data on the characteristics and processing of rosin through literature review, followed by material exploration. The main goal is to produce a material that is sufficiently strong and visually appealing for jewelry applications. Natural materials such as sawdust waste and beeswax were added to strengthen and form a composite with the rosin. Experiments showed that a rosin- to-beeswax ratio of 1:2, with a small amount of sawdust, produced a material with adequate strength. The addition of colorants also enhanced the visual appeal, making it more suitable for jewelry. Strength and usability tests demonstrated that the material is feasible for jewelry-making. The result consists of two jewelry collections inspired by seafoam forms: an industrial collection (rings, earrings, bracelets) and an exploratory collection (necklace). This research contributes to the achievement of SDG 12: Responsible Consumption and Production. Objective: The objective of this study is to investigate rosin and sawdust waste as the main materials for jewelry, with the aim of creating a set of jewelry collection. Theoretical Framework: In this topic, the main concepts and theories that underpin the research is Material Driven Design framework with its four phases: (1) Understanding The Material; (2) Creating Materials Experience Vision; (3) Manifesting Materials Experience Pattern; (4) Designing Material/ Product Concepts. Method: Data collection was carried out through secondary and primary (observation, experiments, interviews, studies of ergonomic, size, Quality Function Deployment for material exploration, and FGD. Design implementation comprises of design concept (5W1H), design criteria setup, moodboard lifestyle selection, moodboard theme, sketch ideation, design alternatives, product and environment study, cost study, rendering, prototyping, technical drawing, user testing, and swot analysis. Results and Discussion: The study demonstrates that rosin, combined with sawdust waste and beeswax, can be processed into environmentally friendly jewelry materials. Material strength depends on composition, thickness, and drying at room temperature. Excessive coloring reduces quality. Larger, simpler molds yield better results, highlighting rosin’s potential for sustainable product applications. Research Implications: This study implies that rosin can serve as a sustainable alternative resin, suitable for jewelry and broader applications. Its water and fungus resistant properties, diverse coloration, and ability to harden at room temperature without additives support scalable production for fashion, home decor, and other product innovations. Originality/Value: This study offers originality by introducing rosin as a primary material for fashion jewelry, an area previously unexplored. The findings provide valuable reference for creative industry SMEs, highlighting rosin’s potential as an innovative, sustainable material for jewelry production.