Mapping Polyester Waste Stream and Recyclability: A Material Flow Analysis of Indonesia’s Textile and Clothing Industry

Indonesia, as a major global textile exporter, faces substantial sustainability challenges due to its linear production model, which generates massive volumes of post-industrial polyester waste (PIPW). However, reliable data and recycling pathways remain critically lacking. This study quantifies the volume, composition, and textile-to-textile (T2T) recyclability potential of PIPW across Indonesia’s national textile and clothing production chain, employing a mixed-methods approach that integrates material flow analysis (MFA), site visits, and stakeholder interviews. The results indicate that 572 kilotonnes of PIPW were generated in 2023, with garment manufacturing identified as the most waste-intensive. Nineteen waste types were identified; 61% comprise fibre blends, which significantly constrain closed-loop recycling. A novel five-tier waste typology was developed to classify waste streams based on material characteristics, technological availability, and economic feasibility. The circularity map reveals that Indonesia is trapped in pseudo-circularity. Scenario analysis suggests that up to 184 kilotonnes of PIPW could be feasibly redirected towards higher-value chemical recycling. The research recommends mandatory source segregation, fiscal incentives, investment in chemical recycling infrastructure, and the integration of circular design into national standards. The study provides the first national-level MFA of PIPW in Indonesia and establishes an empirical baseline to advance T2T recycling in emerging economies.