A review of fabric tactile properties and their subjective assessment for next-to-skin knitted fabrics

A review of studies is presented in the evaluation of fabric tactile properties with a focus on knitted fabrics and developments since the mid-1990s in particular. The fundamental differences in structure between woven and knitted fabrics are highlighted with their consequent different fabric tactile properties. Considering the difficulties in measuring the physical and mechanical properties of knitted fabrics by using currently available instruments such as KESF and FAST systems, alternative measurement technologies are reviewed such as fabric extraction methods using a ring, orifice or a series of metal pins, which are more suited to the measurement of knitted fabrics. These methods have potential for the evaluation of knitted fabrics, particularly for next-to-skin wear. Recent developments in haptic perception are outlined. These developments may facilitate the development of psychophysical stimulus-response models in order to improve the prediction of fabric tactile properties from instrumental measurements. Results are discussed of a survey of tactile assessments of next-to-skin knitted fabrics and a multivariate analysis of these data and a system for the prediction of subjective fabric attributes based on the PhabrOmeter are foreshadowed. Keywords: knitted fabricstactile sensory assessmentfabric testing instrumentation Acknowledgements The authors gratefully acknowledge the assistance of Virginija Daukantienė in provision of information about the Griff-Tester. We would also like to express our sincere gratitude to the fabric assessors who provided the expertise and information for the subjective evaluations reported in this paper.