Physiological and Medical Aspects of the Himalayan Scientific and Mountaineering Expedition

The Himalayan Scientific and Mountaineering Expedi- tion of 1960-61, led by Sir Edmund Hillary, set out from Katmandu on September 14, 1960, and returned in June, 1961, having spent eight months above 15,000 ft. (4,570 m.). It was the first expedition to winter in the Himalayas at high altitude and the first to spend more than six weeks at or above 19,000 ft. (5,790 m.). To do this a much higher standard of protection from the weather was necessary than is usual on climbing expedi- tions, and a prefabricated hut was taken out to the Himalayas in sections. The hut was set up at the head of the Ming Bo glacier at an altitude of 19,000 ft.