Two-Dimensional Nonlinear Dispersive Wave-Current and Three-Dimensional Beach Deformation Model

A numerical wave model based on the Boussinesq equations were extended to the computation of a two-dimensional wave-current field including diffraction, refraction and wave breaking. The energy dissipation due to wave breaking was modeled with a momentum mixing term using eddy viscosity. Beach evolution around a coastal structure was simulated on the basis of the computed velocity field. Applicability of the model was confirmed through laboratory experiments.