Energy, Momentum and Height of a Surging Front of Tsunami

This paper presents an analytical study on the energy, momentum and height of the surging front of a tsunami forming a partially standing wave on a gently sloping beach connected with a region of constant water depth. The theoretical and experimental heights of the surging front are in satisfactory agreement. The relations between the energy, momentum as well as height of surging front to the run-up height of tsunamis are also analytically discussed. The comparison of the theoretical and experimental results shows that the theory accurately estimates the run-up height when the reflection coefficient is relatively large.