Regional Body Composition and Strength, Not Total Body Composition, Are Determinants of Performance in Climbers

Objective: To compare the body composition of Chilean climbers of different performance levels and to determine the relation between the forearm and upper-trunk lean mass and the handgrip and upper-body traction strength, respectively. Methods: A cross-sectional study was carried out on thirty Chilean male adult climbers (26.1 ± 4.9 y.): nine of intermediate level (L1), eleven advanced (L2), and ten elite (L3). Through dual-energy X-Ray absorptiometry (DXA; Lunar Prodigy®), fat mass percentage (FM%), total lean mass (LM), forearm lean mass (FLM), and upper-trunk lean mass (UTLM) were measured. Total muscle mass (TMM) was also estimated. Handgrip strength (HGS) was measured with a Jamar® dynamometer. Maximum upper-body traction strength (UBTS) was evaluated with a standardized movement. The level of climbing was assessed according to IRCRA rules. Results: No differences in FM%, total LM, UTLM, or TMM between the groups were found. Left and assistant FLM were significantly higher in L3 (p = 0.047 and 0.041, respectively). HGS absolute, relative, and adjusted by FLM were not different between groups. FLM was associated with HGS in all segments (p ≤ 0.001). UBTS absolute values, and as adjusted by TMM, were significantly higher in L3 (p = 0.047 and p = 0.049, respectively). Conclusions: Left and non-dominant forearm lean mass were significantly higher in elite climbers. Handgrip strength was not significantly higher in elite climbers; however, the upper-body traction strength was significantly higher in elite climbers, independent of total or regional muscle mass.