Rock Climbing and Nutrition: How Diet and Anthropometric Factors Influence Performance

Wentz, LM, Radman, S, Farris, A, Farris, ZJ, and Kurtz, JA. Rock climbing and nutrition: How diet and anthropometric factors influence performance. J Strength Cond Res XX(X): 000–000, 2026—This study investigated the effects of diet and anthropometric characteristics on climbing performance. Rock climbers ( N = 44: 52% women) completed a 3-day food record and International Society for Advancement of Kinanthropometry (ISAK) level 2 profile. Self-reported highest outdoor redpoint bouldering grade was used to categorize climber ability as intermediate or elite. Independent t-tests and Pearson's correlations were used for statistical analyses. Elite climbers ( N = 11 men; 6 women) had similar body mass index (22.1 ± 1.8 vs. 22.1 ± 1.7 kg·m −2 ) and ape index (arm span/height; 1.02 ± 0.02 vs. 1.01 ± 0.03) compared with intermediate climbers ( N = 10 men; 17 women). Dietary analysis showed energy intake was similar (42 ± 12 vs. 40 ± 10 kcal·kg −1 lean body mass, respectively), but protein intake was higher in elite climbers (1.6 ± 0.5 vs. 1.2 ± 0.4 g·kg −1 body mass; p < 0.01). Muscle mass was positively correlated with total energy intake ( r = 0.56; p < 0.01) and protein intake ( r = 0.65, p < 0.01). Elite climbers had greater muscle mass (31.4 ± 6.4 vs. 27.3 ± 5.4 kg; p = 0.03) and lower adipose mass (15.0 ± 2.0 vs. 18.5 ± 3.3 kg; p < 0.01) compared with intermediate climbers. Somatotype favored mesomorphy for all climbers (4.8 ± 0.9). Contrary to published reports showing energy restriction in rock climbers, our subjects consumed sufficient energy and met protein recommendations. Muscle mass was more important for climbing ability than total body mass or arm/leg length. Practical applications for climbing performance include improving modifiable characteristics, such as meeting protein and energy needs and improving muscle mass rather than restricting dietary intake, which may enhance strength-to-mass ratio, endurance, and overall climbing efficiency.