The KESF system, which was developed for the objective measurement of fabric handle, provided precise measurements of fabric mechanical properties in the low-load range, which was enough to apply them to tailoring process control. The joint research of the present authors began in 1975 with the accumulation of a database for the relation between fabric processability and the making-up of men's suits, which had been produced by the industrial line-production system initiated around 1975. Following this development, some pioneering trials of tailoring process control based on fabric objective data were initiated by Ito, and he set this system in practice at his company on a suit-production line. After these trials, similar control systems were initiated into different companies. The engineering of suit manufacture on the basis of objective measurement has now become popular in the tailoring industry in Japan. Some of the essential points of the tailoring-industry control initiated by Ito with the assistance of Kawabata and Niwa are introduced, and the progress of this technology in Japan is also reviewed.
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Kawabata et al. (1992) studied this question.