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August 30, 2026Russian Journal of Clinical Dermatology and Venereology

Evolution of emollients and active ingredients in dermatology

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Authors

ДКД.В. КозловаDZD. V. ZaslavskyАТА. В. Таганов

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Overview

Review demonstrates advances in active emollients for barrier dysfunction in dermatoses, indicating potential to reduce topical corticosteroid reliance.

Key Points

  • To review the evolution of emollients and active cosmeceutical ingredients targeting epidermal barrier dysfunction in inflammatory dermatological conditions.
  • Narrative evaluation of current paradigms in epidermal barrier biology, non-standardized xerosis management, and formulation science for cosmeceuticals.
  • Advanced formulations, designated as 'emollients plus' and 'immunolents', incorporate bioengineered active agents that provide anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antimicrobial, and antipruritic activity while supporting the cutaneous microbiome.
  • Optimized epidermal barrier restoration reduces transepidermal water loss, enhances stratum corneum hydration, and confers a steroid-sparing effect that decreases reliance on topical corticosteroids.

Cite This Study

Козлова et al. (2026) studied this question.

synapsesocial.com/papers/6a93f0c06c1a8fb52e79d2c5https://doi.org/10.17116/klinderma202625041641
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