A systematic review of skincare peptide developments: functional mechanism, structural optimization, peptide pool framework, and SWOT analysis

Skincare peptides exhibit diversified mechanisms with signaling peptides, carrier peptides, neurotransmitter-inhibitory peptides, and other specific mechanisms. The stability, activity, and applicability of the existing skincare peptides can be enhanced by altering their amino acid compositions, introducing cyclic structures, and/or making specific side chain modifications, to provide adequate peptide candidates for skincare product bio-designs and applications. Hence, this article focuses on advances and chances of developing different types of skincare peptides. After exploring the functional mechanism of skincare peptides as well as the optimization of their structure and delivery, a peptide pool framework is also proposed with Virtual (large-scale skincare-potential peptide sequences and structures for specific in silico screening), Testable (small-scale synthesized peptides for skincare tests), and Bio-designed (synthesized peptides for skincare bio-designs and applications) pools. This peptide pool framework is expected to simplify the processes of developing reliable skincare peptides from sequence-/structure-screening, experimental testing, structural improvement, individual bio-design, to industrial application processes. Subsequently, a SWOT (strengths, weaknesses, opportunities, and threats) analysis is conducted to discuss the current state and future prospects of industrial skincare peptides. Finally, the representative peptide-based skincare products and the related patents are summarized to highlight current applications and future opportunities. Despite recent advances, ongoing research is needed to explore the stability, compatibility, safety, efficacy, optimization, bio-design, and application of candidate skincare peptides, constantly driving the development of innovative peptide materials and peptide-skincare products.