Development of spun-like stretch fabrics using air-jet textured T400 yarn: effect of air-pressure and yarn overfeed on fabric properties

Purpose This study investigates the effect of air-jet texturing (AJT) parameters on the properties of knitted fabrics produced from spun-like elastomultiester polyester (T400) yarns, focussing on the effect of air pressure, core-yarn overfeed, and effect-yarn overfeed on stretch fabric properties. Design/methodology/approach T400 yarns were textured using a standard SSM air-jet texturing machine with commercial nozzles. Knitted fabrics were made on a 14-gauge Shima Seiki machine. The effects of selected AJT parameters were systematically evaluated in terms of yarn and fabric properties. Findings AJT process parameters significantly affected the resulting fabric properties. T400 filaments required processing conditions different from those used for conventional non-stretch filaments. Spun-like stretch fabrics were successfully produced from T400 alone, without blending with spandex or other polymer yarns, providing a potential advantage for recycling. Research limitations/implications The study is limited to T400 yarns, selected AJT parameter ranges, and fixed knitting conditions. Further research should examine other Elastomultiester yarns and wider processing conditions. Practical implications The approach enables the production of high-performance, spun-like stretch fabrics from a polyester bicomponent, offering a potentially more recyclable alternative to spandex-polyester blends. Social implications This research will contribute to positive social outcomes by promoting responsible waste management and encouraging recycling practices. Originality/value This study demonstrates a polyester bicomponent approach to producing spun-like stretch fabrics through air-jet texturing of T400 yarn, contributing to more recyclable stretch textile development.