Dihydromyricetin: extraction, efficacy tests and its application in cosmetics

Abatract Background Ampelopsis grossedentata (Hand.-Mazz.) W.T.Wang (AG) has a variety of ingredients and has immunomodulatory, hypoglycemic, and lipid-lowering effects. Dihydromyricetin (DMY) is one of the main functional ingredients in AG. Objective To evaluate the efficacy of DMY from AG, and develop a multi-functional and high active product of DMY to use in cosmetics. Material and Methods The DMY samples were identified by analytical techniques including HPLC, IR, MS, NMR. Efficacy tests include DPPH, ABTS and ROS free radical scavenging, oil antioxidant test, promotion of caudal fin regeneration in zebrafish, promotion of Type I collagen in HFF-1 cell, LPS-induced inhibition of IL-6, inhibition of melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells, inhibition of collagenase and tyrosinase etc. Results At 7.5 μg/mL, the down regulation rate of IL-6 was 12.12%. At 10.0 μg/mL, the DPPH and ABTS free radical scavenging rate were 63.66% and 100.00%, the ROS clearance rate of zebrafish was 12.00%, and the repairing rate was 23.20% in zebrafish. At 15.0 μg/mL, the inhibition rate of collagenase and tyrosinase were 35.00% and 35.23%, promotion rate of Type I collagen in HFF-1 cell was 19.09%. At 100.0 μg/mL, the relative melanin content in B16 melanoma cells was 60.34%. Adding 0.01% of DMY in camellia seed oil and olea europaea oil, at 65 ℃ for 28 days, the oxidation process was delayed by 88.35% and 65.69%, which were better than 0.05%BHT (72.30% and 62.16%). Conclusion This findings suggest that DMY from AG has good anti-oxidation, anti-inflammatory, repairing, anti-wrinkling, whitening effects, so it has broad application prospects as a natural functional ingredient in cosmetics.