Climber Ability and Differences in Psychological, Physiological and Behavioral Responses to an On-sight Lead Climb

Rock climbing performance is affected by psychophysiological stress that can vary based on route difficulty relative to the climber’s ability. The purpose of this study was to investigate psychophysiological, emotional, and performance differences between climbers attempting a lead route above (CLL above ), at (CLL) or below (CLL below ) their on-sight ability level. 61 intermediate to advanced climbers completed a single on-sight lead ascent. Measurements of climbing performance (technique, tactics, etc.), psychophysiological (heart rate, cardiovascular reactivity, cortisol, etc) and psychometric variables (somatic and cognitive anxiety, self-confidence) were taken before and after receiving the task instructions; and pre, during and post climb. The main findings of this study were: a) significant improvements in climbing performance with increased ability relative to the route (geometric entropy: p = .013); b) greater intensity of somatic ( p < .005) and cognitive anxiety ( p = .005) and lower self-confidence ( p < .005) between CLL above and CLL and CLL below ; c) a significant difference in anticipatory HR between CLL above and CLL below ( p = .002), but no significant differences in salivary cortisol. Results suggested that increased difficulty relative to a climber’s ability, yielding an increased likelihood of a climber falling or being unable to complete the route, was likely to elicit a negative emotional response, increase anxiety, decrease self-confidence and disrupt performance.